Bouldering
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Evolv Defy VTR
There are a lot of considerations when picking out a pair of climbing shoes, but in the end it's what fits your foot and the style of climbing you want to do. If this is your first pair of shoes, check out my article "Climbing Shoes - Your First Pair" for some tips, but beyond that, here we go.
I recently picked up a pair of Evolv Defy VTRs and honestly could not be happier with them. Having a wide toe box, I was really concerned when going to purchase a new pair of shoes that I was going to have the long and strenuous search like with hiking boots, but was pleasantly surprised when trying these on. Just like all climbing shoes, the fit is definitely snug, but there was no ankle dig issues, and the fit around the toes was not too bad. I definitely threw them off after every wall for a while, but after a couple weeks, grew pretty accustomed to them. Now they aren't a very aggressive shoe, but being somewhat new to climbing, I have yet to do a move yet where the shoes, not my technique, were the obstacle. They have also been quite durable. I've used them about 4-5 times a week over the last 4 months and outside of a very small rubber chunk out of the bottom of one shoe, they've held up quite well and there have been zero issues with any glued pieces. They are also 100% synthetic, so the overall shape of the shoe has not changed at all from the first day to my most recent climb. Now there is one big con to these shoes, and that is the stink factor. I prefer to climb without socks, (which may be the root cause), but they pretty much smell like they could kill small animals. I've done all the tricks, air them outside overnight, spray them down with Lysol and/or Odor Eaters, and even put them in the freezer overnight, and it kind of helps, but only temporarily. In the end, I would still totally recommend these shoes to any climber, new or experienced.
Happy Climbing!...
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Five.Ten Anasazi Moccasym Review
At the start of pretty near every climbing season, I face a dilemma: which climbing shoes to buy. When I first began climbing in the late eighties, the choice was easy. There were only a few pairs of climbing shoes on the market and they were all fairly similar. They were all high tops. They were all lace ups. They were all stiff as boards and none of them were all that sticky by today’s rubber standards. Now, there are literally hundreds of shoes from which to pick, and the choice is, shall we say, complicated. Standing in front of the shoe display at my local climbing shop, it seems so daunting. Lace up, Velcro or slipper? Soft or stiff? Cambered or not? Slingshot rand? What type of climbing do I mostly do? Fit (which is the single most important factor in a shoe choice) aside, which is the right shoe for me? Given the uncertainty surrounding new climbing shoes and how they’ll work for me, is it any wonder that, year in and year out, I pick the same make and model? Over and over again, I pick the Five.Ten Anasazi Moccasym.
Five.Ten Anasazi Moccasym Features
As climbing shoes go, the Moccasym is refreshingly simple, and none of its features are high tech. Five.Ten hit on a winning formula with this one. There’s just no good reason to change them!- Unlined leather upper
- Soft and supple Stealth C4 sole
- Slingshot rand
Five.Ten Anasazi Moccasym Review
The Good- Stealth C4 rubber is, in my opinion, stickier than a murder charge on Charles Manson. Even later versions of Five.Ten rubber do not perform as well.
- The sole under the Anasazi Moccasym is softer than a new-born puppy. This means sensitivity and gripability (the ability to grasp foot holds with your toes, much like a monkey) are high. This softness also enables the Anasazi Moccasym to deform to rock irregularities and smear like a champ.
- Easy on, easy off: granted, this goes for any slipper, but I’ll mention it anyway, because it’s such a huge factor in my decision to keep buying them. I remove them at every opportunity -- no fuss, no muss -- even when hanging at multi-pitch anchors. I suppose a “comfortable” shoe would suffice, but what’s more comfy than bare feet?
- The Moccasym’s low toe profile also makes it a surprise winner for crack climbing, especially thin cracks.
- Unlined leather stretches, which makes the Moccasym difficult to size. What’s more, the larger the shoe, the more unlined leather it has and the more it stretches. I figured my sizing out early on, so I’m set, but given that this shoe could stretch the equivalent of a full size... or less... or more... a correct size first try isn’t a foregone conclusion. You won’t know if you got it really right, until after a break-in period.
- Unfortunately, the soft sole under the Anasazi Moccasym also makes it difficult to dial in miniscule edges on slabs, which require you to place most of your weight on tiny features. Along these same lines, it takes a strong-footed, precise climber to really make use of something so soft. This is not a good beginner shoe.
Bottom Line:
Five.Ten’s Anasazi Moccasym has been around longer than almost any other model of shoe I can name, and there’s a reason why it’s the best-selling slipper of all time. I dread the day they discontinue this model -- a day I might also consider quitting climbing. Oh, who am I kidding? I’ll just buy enough pairs to last the rest of my life! Buy Now: Pick up the Five.Ten Anasazi Moccasym and find out why so many people before you did the same. ... Read more...
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Evolv Elektra Climbing Shoe
I have stinky feet. My roommates have stinky feet. We are a house of stinky feet. This is mainly due to the fact that our toesies are regularly crammed into small purple stink bombs, also known as climbing shoes. All three of us sport the Evolv Elektras for our days on the smeary sport routes. A softer climbing shoe, the Elektras are a great shoe for beginner climbers who are looking for something more on the comfortable side. They are also great for days at the crag when you are single pitching it for the morning. The velcro closure makes for easy on and off when you're ready to give your feet some wiggle room. The upper sole is synthetic, so while it may dry quickly from your foot sweat, be ready for it to retain the smell for days to come.
Evolv Elektra Climbing Shoe
- Minimal stretch when out of the box
- TRAX XT-5 soles provide great smearing capabilities
- Velcro closures make for easy in and out of shoes and easy adjustment