The clanking of gear hanging off a climbers harness is one of my favorite sounds in the world. One piece that should not be missed is the Omega Pacific Jake carabiner. Among the load of hardware climbers hoard, there are necessities, and a few good locking carabiners are a must.
Are all locking carabiners created equal? No. Things to consider:
- Safety ratings
- Size, weight, & shape
- Locking mechanism (screw gate vs. spring loaded/ automatic, etc)
- Ease in use
The Omega Pacific Jake is different from the rest in that the gate is offset. Most ‘biners have gates which come straight back to touch the back wall side of the ‘biner cutting the usable space of the ‘biner in half. This may pin your rope the back wall of the biner, or compartmentalize your ropes in the inaccessible half. The space inside the Pacific Jake ‘biner is FULLY usable. When the gate is pulled back in the Omega Pacific Jake, it is set to the side of the ‘biner allowing the climber to access the entirety of the interior of the ‘biner to update rope systems, or sort ropes with ease. When I need a little more space, it is the Omega Pacific Jake every time.
I feel like every climber should have a few, but not every locker I own is an Omega Pacific Jake. The Jake has a pear shape which is slightly more bulbous than the rest. Some climbers have complained saying the biner is too big, though I have had no issues with it. Understanding the pear shape, the tapered end is attached to a belay loop or utility loop when using the piece as a belay device. If the rope is not weighted it is known to rotate in its space as it is a roomy piece, which is something you will need to check before weighting. Once the rope is weighted I like shape is an asset as it holds itself in line. But it is always good to recheck and confirm you are not weighting a ‘biner cross gate.
The Omega Pacific Jake meets the standard for safety regulations with 23kN on the major axis and 10kN on the minor. The screwgate closure is very secure and the piece seems to wear nicely. It is a mid weight locking ‘biner and worth the money. The ease and simplicity in the design and use makes me comfortable when climbing, which ultimate allows me to climb harder. I highly recommend the Omega Pacific Jake.